Those of us intrigued by the use of effective microbes in the orchard face having to "brew" the mother culture into larger batches to make this economical. The basic recipe calls for 3/4 cup EM and 3/4 cup molasses (blackstrap or better in nutritional quality) to a gallon of water... I'm close to the recommended ratios with this... which should then be kept around 100F for 7 to 14 days to acheive maximum microbe reproduction. I tried hot water baths in the kitchen, putting plastic jugs of EM brew in large pots with lids. Things cooled down too much between water changes, not to mention that kitchen counter space was grudgingly given. Next I tried coolers on the back porch, but replenishing the hot water wasn't all that practical. Simply putting the jugs in the solar green house seemed a good direction to try next. These went up on the shelf beneath a towel so as not to overheat. Cooling down too much at night was not good but I went with the compromise. Then raccoons found me out, coming in a slightly open door for a big drink, leaving spilled jugs behind and molasses-saturated basil seedlings. I'm honestly not contributing any brilliant ideas here, I know. What comes to mind as both practical and a means of providing more consistent heat for brewing EM?

It seems this would be a nice application for a simple solar water heater. Could be done with plastic pipe and a small pump. The control could be more complicated - the easiest control would be human: a thermometer and someone who looks at the thermometer once in a while turns the system on and off!

Your dilemma seems quite similar to the one I have faced with temperature controls for cutting propagation at the nursery. To make a long story short, we augmented more sustainable methods by using a mechanized system, namely a good electric propagation mat and thermostat. The key is a well built casing and insulation. For a 2 week period it wouldn't cost much in electricity. We tried a host of different approaches (an almost success was a water bath with an aquarium heater), but it is comforting to have a system that babysits for you. That said, I have had success with more natural approaches. Taking the traditional model of manure as a heat source in cold framing, the heat production from decay is a good starting point. Embedded in a compost pile of sufficient size will give a long gradual heating but will need to be watched for overheating. Regarding the greenhouse attempt, I think it can work but with an increase in thermal mass to get the solution through the evenings. For example, a 5 gallon pail of mother on a rack within a black 55 gallon drum of water should be an improvement, and it'll help regulate the greenhouse temps to boot.

Michael , I see that your recipe calls for a fair bit more than my supplier past on . I use 50ml EM, (about 4 good table spoons ) , 40ml molasses ( 3 good table spoons ) mix in 800 ml of unchlorinated water ( just under a quart ) . I mix my batches in 2 qt milk jugs and place these in the oven with just the light on. they grow for 4-5 weeks. I test with ph paper , lower then 3.9 is good . I spray with a 50 gal tank and use one qt. in 50 gals . What comes to mind reading above is a box , wooden or metal with a light bulb or two to warm things up with a couple " slide dampers " that you can open or shut to control temperature . simple and inexpensive .

This sounds like something very similar to the process of making Madeira.  Madiera is a sherry which is heated to 105 degrees (or higher), (best at the lower temp for longer) in an estufa, which is simply a sort of oven.  I made my own a number of years ago, using a plastic garbage can, insulated with fibreglass batts, and heated with a light bulb.  I regulated the temperature simply by using a light bulb of differing wattage, and, as I recall ended up with a 15 watt bulb as adequate to maintain the temp of 105 degrees.  (The original Madeira was the result of a shipload of Spanish sherry getting becalmed in the Sargasso Sea for 3 months.  When they eventually made port the sherry was found to have improved immeasurably.  For awhile they sent boatloads of sherry down to the Sargasso, until somebody figured out it wasn't the location, but the heat which was making the difference.)  A\nd, yes, my Madiera was a great success.  Have some Madiera m' dear...

I've learned some substantial things since this post was begun. Activating effective microbes first entails getting the lactic bacteria in gear. That takes 2 to 3 days at 90-95F, at which point the ideal temp drops to the 72-78F range. This is the brewing phase where photosynthetic bacteria come out of dromancy, and that takes 5 to 7 days. I manage all this with a pot of hot water in an old cooler. I find reheating the water twice a day necessary for the lactic phase, and then only once a day for the photosynthetic phase. All these microbe doings are confirmed by testing the pH of the batch. After 9 to 10 days (total ) the brew should be down below 3.8 and thus good to go for orchard use.

I am interested in this Effective Microorganism discussion of a while back.  But I have some Qs that I hope you don't mind my raising as I seek to understand the why's behind everything.

One Q is can you explain briefly the underpinnings of why EM, or refer to me references on them?  What are they really?  Why use them on fruit trees?  How did you all get on to them?

Is my understanding that we are looking to colonize the bark with 'good' things?  If so, what are they out competing and if so for how long? 

Where to you get EMs?

I can find molasses locally for purchase, but in a dried form (as it is part of dairy cow feed here in WI).  Is that suitable for rehydrating for this EM mix and for other uses in tank mixes, such as Bt to help encourage leps to feed on it?

-Deirdre B.

deirdreb ,