I'm thinking we need a good discussion on the winners and losers of pruning tools. I have been looking for a while for gear that not only work for me, but that might make me proud to sell someday. My first reaction is goodness, there are alot of pieces of junk out there. Worst is a saw that won't cut on the first stroke. Almost as aggravating is a tool that cannot be repaired or sharpened. We also have been trying to source things as close to local as possible, which is nearly impossible. We are currently working with blacksmiths to get going on some of the simpler items. Cut ot the chase: In saws I use 3 levels of attack. For the finest work the Wheeler Saw (Oesco- and made in Mass.) cuts beautifully. I did not however like the push stroke on this as it liked to vibrate on most cuts from above, so I reversed it to the pull and it became a joy to use. It makes only a tiny kerf with little tear so it is nice for small caliper trimming. Downside is changing the blade, you need a vise to put enough torque on the back to remove the tensioned blade. This is fine if you have a vise out in the field when you snap the blade someday, otherwise it is a drawback. The next size up and certainly the most useful are the class of Japanese pull stroke saws. I believe Fedco's are this style, but I have been using the Silky brand. Likely there are others as well. My comments regard the Silky since that is what I have been using. These saws also make a pretty clean cut (there is no set to the teeth), remain sharp for a LONG time, and fit in a little holster on the belt. I have cut 4" branches in a pinch with a foot long blade with little effort. Downside is they cannot be sharpened and the replacement blades are 30 bucks, as opposed to 5 for the Wheeler. It is still worth it. Also it is another overseas made tool, most are, but the quality cuts down on physical fatigue and perhaps good quality workmanship should be rewarded wherever they are. Thirdly, the big cuts. Although I know my way around a chain saw, I keep it as far away from my fruit trees as I can. The biggest of branches can be taken out easily and QUIETLY with a good 'ol 3 foot bow saw. When these things are sharp they sail through wood. Two years ago I bucked 14 cord of firewood across a sawhorse going through only 2 blades (I snapped one). They can be sharpened, but replacements are only around 9 bucks. A bowsaw blade, incidently, can be manipulated with the fingers to curve around obstructions in a busy tree, just watch out for snapping it with too much pressure. Pole saws have their place, especially the aforementioned Japanese style, but I find I use them more when I am simply in a hurry. for a really good cut you really need to be in that tree, so the hand saws are best and at close proximity. Saws can handle most work in the orchard, often encouraging the smartest cuts. I assume someone will follow up with reviews on pruning shears, which I would also like to discuss.

For general pruning I love my Swiss Felco #8. Cuts as well as the Swiss skiers, if kept honed and oiled. I guess stainless steel doesn't exist as far as pruning shears is concerned. The parts are replaceable too. The small Felco pruning saw is handy too.

I was speaking with a guy at local ipm orchard near me who said that the greatest thing that happened for him was the small "orchard" chainsaws coming on to the market. He said that before he would never take big enough cuts using his hand saws (slow, hard work) often leaving larger branches past their prime. Now they go through with the chainsaw first for the big cuts, and then have people follow with pruners (pole and hand) and hand saws to give it a hair cut. Not advocating it, but there might be some wisdom there. ( Full disclosure: my trees have seen a chain saw.)

There is a point we might consider regarding tools for pruning, and which ideas belong just as well in the pruning link. Thus, I am fleshing this idea out in that section. Regarding the tools specifically, different ones will often be used according to the workload. For example, the orchardist with 40 trees can likely make nice oblique cuts using a good set of by-pass loppers, or a fine tooth saw. Folks with 500 standard trees are going to go for the pole loppers, pole saws and pole mounted chain saws. A good pair of sharp loppers can actually be quite useful. To specify, these are the 2' long secateurs we normally associated with limbing brush. Crucial for those who don't already know this is the importance of choosing a bypass rather than anvil cut. For one, it can be sharpened for free with a stone or chainsaw file in the field. Secondly, you determine how tight you want the cut. An anvil pruner both crushes the branch, and provides an often undesired distance from where it is removed due to the tool's collar. This can leave an excess stub. My example for show and tell in terms of usefulness of a tool is displayed with loppers: I have a 13 year old pair of "green thumb" shears that are still going strong. I don't think they are much better than other brands, it is simply that they are simple. Two pieces, one bolt, easily sharpened blade. No extra levers to break, no pieces to replace anvil plates that get worn. The opposition? I have no less than 12 other types, a full pile (at 30 bucks a crack) that are either offer no replacement parts or are otherwise unrepairable. For hand secateurs, Felcos need no introduction. I have the scion gathering pair, a modified #11 I believe. It holds the branch in the shears so it doesn't drop ( I gather thousands of scions each year). I used this function for a whole 10 minutes before I unscrewed the attachment and began using them as regular pruners, since the plate gets in the way of a good cut. Replacement parts are cheap and easily obtained. It would be nice if more local stores caried this and other quality brands of tools, but alas the inexpensive item drives the market. An unsung hero in my opinion, and available at many hardware stores is the 15 dollar Corona by-pass pruners. It has a wire coil spring which works just as well as the sheet spring of the Felco. It seems the steel is not quite as good, so i sharpen it more, but they really work well. My first one is 6 years old and has functioned without issue. It is the one I give my help, since I'd rather lose 15 dollars than 40 when they don't remember where they left it. The downside is the catch that locks them together- it is useless, and unless you have a closed-bottom pouch you will cut yourself walking around.

Now that the orchard that I have been bringing back has most of the big ugly stuff done I have been changing the pruning tools I use most. The last couple of years my standard going into the orchard kit includes: Felco 13 hand shears, capable of slightly larger cuts, nice when we were first starting to recover our orchard but still does the little stuff: Bahco P160 24" Loppers, not cheap but I love these and find myself doing most of my pruning with them as they can perform everything from fine to heavier (1.5" +) cuts, they are also light and handle well with heavy gloves on those cold pruning days: a simple folding, Japanese pull style blade, pruning saw w/ 8" blade ( I have a Felco), this is great for larger cuts, is quick and with a little care can make a nice clean cut. And how to reach those upper branches, I use a 10' aluminum tripod ladder. Light, durable, weather resistant, you don't have to haul it back to the barn every time you use it. It has a 45" wide base making it very stable even when your near the top. I also have my old monster 22' wood ladders for getting up into the bigger standards.