Those Dwatted Wabbits! | Discussion | Holistic Orchard Network

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rolferd 23 months ago
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A few days back, I stepped through the snowdrifts in our Minnesota backyard to find rabbits (didn't see any deer tracks so I'm blaming bunnies) had reached high and nearly girdled a young Haralson just below the bottom branches. Is there any hope if they didn't go too deep (the brown outer bark layer is almost gone for several inches of circumference of the tree), or is it time to plant a replacement? Rolf

Todd Parlo 23 months ago
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Rabbits will nip shoots cleanly like a pair of pruning shears, so check the branches ends as well. Deer always leave the branches mangled, as you would if you were chewing them with your molars. Mice/voles will chew bark as well, and I have also had porcupines dining on mine. This is where we all wish we had a bit of fence around tree bases. Regarding damage, if there is cambium still in existence (look for green beneath), or if there is some unchewed continuous area from root to canopy, you might be ok. I have seen trees with more than 3/4 of the bark removed to the xylem and survive. When a tree takes a big hit, a fairly strong pruning will help by leaving less for the taxed circulatory system to have to support. I have saved trees also by inarch grafting. Make note that showshoe hare with potatoes and carrots makes a delightful stew. Bon appetit.

david.maxwell 23 months ago
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I would bridge graft them as soon as the sap begins to rise. (Cut your scions from anything you have with good long watersprouts, now. Doesn't matter at all what variety it is. Store the scions somewhere cool (back of fridge, cold cellar,...) until spring, then graft across the defect, (bark grafts bottom and top. The easiest way to hold them is to drive a little brad through the scion into the trunk: the tree doesn't seem to mind.)

Michelle and Chris McColl 23 months ago
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We have had success saving apples, stone fruit and Spanish chestnuts by taking two or three or four straps of bark 10 to 15mm wide from higher up on the tree that has been ring-barked, and long enough to bridge across the ring-barked section. Cut matching pairs of slots in the bark immediately above and below the ring-barked section (with rectangular ends) for the bridging straps of bark to fit into. We wrap with grafting tape to hold the two or three or four bark straps in place. (David's suggestion "to drive a little brad" is probably a better option). Wait until the sap is moving and the bark will lift easily. Be careful that the bark under the plastic does not "sweat" in the summer heat, as the bridging straps may rot and die. May need to re-wrap loosely with grafting tape, and/or provide shade (say loose cardboard wrap). May also need to wrap with chicken wire (or similar) to stop those dwatted wabbits undoing all the good work.