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Forum Index > Bug by Bug > Curculio trap tree

Jim Gallott 3 years ago
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In the Minnesota Apples thread under 'Varieties' (http://grou.ps/groworganicapples/talks/178932) Michael wrote Chestnut Crab is a good pollinator and also effective here in Lost Nation Orchard as a "curculio trap tree" due to its lush foliage. What exactly do you mean by 'Curculio trap tree'?
Steve Gougeon 3 years ago
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If you are using Surround to keep PC off your trees, the idea is that it can be wise to leave a tree here and there that are unsprayed. If you cover every tree in the orchard, the PC with get tired of not being able to find a clean place to feed and lay eggs. Then they just soldier on through and do their business on treated trees. Where if you have a unsprayed (Surround) tree here and there, it gives the PC a place to go, you are just counting on sacrificing that fruit to the PC gods. I have used the trap tree theory in my orchard. They definitely have more PC damage, but I am unable to tell quantifiably if that means less in the rest of the trees.
Michael Phillips 3 years ago
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Several concepts enter into this discussion of curculio trap trees, much of which is detailed in the revised edition of Apple Grower. We start with the ability to "push and pull" an insect species by providing friendly habitat in the midst of unfriendly habitat. Steve gives the example of Surround kaoilin clay but similar things can be done with garlic/neem ... any spray strategy deemed a repellent basically. Selecting appropriate "trap trees" ties into orchard architecture, the seasonal traffic pattern of the pest in question, and recognizing the draw power of certain varieties over others. Liberty apple has proven potential as do the majority of edible crabs with respect to curculio. Other tree fruits work too, depending on region. Allowing a species its due in the orchard ecosystem is the means by which we can reduce the weeks of clay coverage necessary to protect the crop ... once the trap trees have taken the brunt of egglaying and feeding damage, then the protected trees should be beyond an "extended window of induced curc activity" caused when an entire ecosystem is treated the same. Nor is this simply about "sacrifical fruits' in order to guarantee an untouched portion of the crop. A number of options exist for "curculio understory management" -- from chickens and soil barriers to active knockdown and flamethrowing and parasitic nematodes to hitting such trees with PyGanic. Properly-positioned trap trees are the means by which we can limit the population numbers of a pest like curculio in following seasons.
Steve Gougeon 33 months ago
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I'm working on my trap tree strategy, currently based on a few things; 1- Curc. hot spots in the orchard and, 2 using those trees that are real pains (the Mac's along the edge of the woods that the maples nearly cover, also a hot spot). What is playing into others choice of trap trees?
laura perkins 24 months ago
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How far away should trap trees be located from the apples you want to save? Is 300 ft too far away?
Steve Gougeon 24 months ago
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I choose trees that are right in the same rows as the ones I am trying to protect. If the trap tree is too far away, off by its self, then there is a better chance that some curc might miss it and go on to the ones you want to protect. The idea is that they are going to move until they find a feeding/egg laying spot, if they get to a tree that has something irritating on it, then they might move on to the next easiest target. You just don't want that target to be too long a walk/fly away or they might just get frustrated, put their heads down, march right through the clay, and take a bite. And they will!
gkoehler 23 months ago
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Just a thought - Pyganic applicaition on a warm still humid evening (esp. if barometer dropping, i.e. with rain in forecast) on the trap tree might help reduce the PC population. Without residual efficacy, bang for the buck from Pyganic not high enough for full orchard application, but if PC were congregated on trap tree a timely application could be cost effective. Also I've been told that even though not enough efficacy to put on label, but Entrust said to have substantial activity against PC.
Steve Gougeon 23 months ago
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About 6 chickens with a tiny house, fenced in around the trap tree might deal with quite a few of them without having to spray.
ghworth 10 months ago
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"Curcs", great word Michael Phillips!

The cursed curcs are the only organically unsurmountable pest in my orchard. Organic Gardening magazine once famously declared that there was no organic solution for curcs. Perhaps this is slightly overstated. Surround product has given some growers evident relief, and there are a few other old standbys are numerated above, such as a sacrificial tree, beating the tree and collecting the curcs on a tarp for disposal, and chicken runs. Orchard cleanliness, particularly in the collecting and disposing of the june drops to lessen the propagation of these pests is also useful. Mild chemicals such as phosolone, in the generic fruit tree sprays are no longer available or legal in my area, and it is shockingly advised to use the far more toxic, to all creatures and bees, malathion and diaz. which are still available, and clearly should not be.

Still, curcs sometimes totally devastate my small homestead orchard. Most of the rest are easily controlled by insecticidal soap alone. So my battle continues.

This year I will use tarps, beatings with a canoe paddle, and june drop cleanup. If I am still losing, I will use one spray of malathion, well after blossom, to spare the bees. It has a 14 day kill factor, and might be enough to get through the worst. 

Having just a few curc bites per apple is not too bad. In some ways, it helps thin the apples for the june drop as you take out the worst affected, And a decent portion of the bites do not hatch. However a bad infestation, like last year, with only soaps, resulted in the loss of the entire crop. 

Anyone who may have some suggestions as to how I can manage a respectable crop, without chemicals, please help me. Besides, I want to introduce bee hives for next year.

[EDITOR"S NOTE: The dormant oil bit that follows should be a new thread, please.]
One further comment on this monologue, This year I am going to do the dormant oil trick which I usually don't, just to keep back the other pests a bit. But I noticed that the old and declining trees were pretty rough in the bark, lichen and moss. So I gave it a scrape down with a garden tool so the spray will get in where other eggs are hidden. I have only done this once before in tending this orchard over 29 years, concerned that I may be increasing the tree exposure to more UV. It is a method I read in an organic orcharding book decades ago. Any thought on the pros and cons.

Thanks to anybody for reading this and good orcharding'
Geoffrey


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