All are welcome to read the full array of topics within the Discussion Index where EXPERIENCED fruit growers discuss valuable nuance.
Forum Index > Bug by Bug > Curculio trap tree
|
|
Steve Gougeon 3 years ago
ActivityRank: 0
If you are using Surround to keep PC off your trees, the idea is that it can be
wise to leave a tree here and there that are unsprayed. If you cover every tree
in the orchard, the PC with get tired of not being able to find a clean place
to feed and lay eggs. Then they just soldier on through and do their business
on treated trees. Where if you have a unsprayed (Surround) tree here and there,
it gives the PC a place to go, you are just counting on sacrificing that fruit
to the PC gods. I have used the trap tree theory in my orchard. They definitely
have more PC damage, but I am unable to tell quantifiably if that means less in
the rest of the trees.
|
|
|
Michael Phillips 3 years ago
ActivityRank: 0
Several concepts enter into this discussion of curculio trap trees, much of
which is detailed in the revised edition of Apple Grower. We start with the ability to "push and pull" an
insect species by providing friendly habitat in the midst of unfriendly
habitat. Steve gives the example of Surround kaoilin clay but similar things
can be done with garlic/neem ... any spray strategy deemed a repellent
basically. Selecting appropriate "trap trees" ties into orchard architecture,
the seasonal traffic pattern of the pest in question, and recognizing the draw
power of certain varieties over others. Liberty apple has proven potential as
do the majority of edible crabs with respect to curculio. Other tree fruits
work too, depending on region. Allowing a species its due in the orchard
ecosystem is the means by which we can reduce the weeks of clay coverage
necessary to protect the crop ... once the trap trees have taken the brunt of
egglaying and feeding damage, then the protected trees should be beyond an
"extended window of induced curc activity" caused when an entire ecosystem is
treated the same. Nor is this simply about "sacrifical fruits' in order to
guarantee an untouched portion of the crop. A number of options exist for
"curculio understory management" -- from chickens and soil barriers to active
knockdown and flamethrowing and parasitic nematodes to hitting such trees with
PyGanic. Properly-positioned trap trees are the means by which we can limit the
population numbers of a pest like curculio in following seasons.
|
|
|
Steve Gougeon 33 months ago
ActivityRank: 0
I'm working on my trap tree strategy, currently based on a few things; 1- Curc.
hot spots in the orchard and, 2 using those trees that are real pains (the
Mac's along the edge of the woods that the maples nearly cover, also a hot
spot). What is playing into others choice of trap trees?
|
|
|
laura perkins 24 months ago
ActivityRank: 0
How far away should trap trees be located from the apples you want to save? Is
300 ft too far away?
|
|
|
Steve Gougeon 24 months ago
ActivityRank: 0
I choose trees that are right in the same rows as the ones I am trying to
protect. If the trap tree is too far away, off by its self, then there is a
better chance that some curc might miss it and go on to the ones you want to
protect. The idea is that they are going to move until they find a feeding/egg
laying spot, if they get to a tree that has something irritating on it, then
they might move on to the next easiest target. You just don't want that target
to be too long a walk/fly away or they might just get frustrated, put their
heads down, march right through the clay, and take a bite. And they will!
|
|
|
gkoehler 23 months ago
ActivityRank: 0
Just a thought - Pyganic applicaition on a warm still humid evening (esp. if
barometer dropping, i.e. with rain in forecast) on the trap tree might help
reduce the PC population. Without residual efficacy, bang for the buck from
Pyganic not high enough for full orchard application, but if PC were
congregated on trap tree a timely application could be cost effective. Also
I've been told that even though not enough efficacy to put on label, but
Entrust said to have substantial activity against PC.
|
|
|
Steve Gougeon 23 months ago
ActivityRank: 0
About 6 chickens with a tiny house, fenced in around the trap tree might deal
with quite a few of them without having to spray.
|
|
|
ghworth 10 months ago
ActivityRank: 0
"Curcs", great word Michael Phillips!
The cursed curcs are the only organically unsurmountable pest in my
orchard. Organic Gardening magazine once famously declared that there was no
organic solution for curcs. Perhaps this is slightly overstated. Surround
product has given some growers evident relief, and there are a few other old
standbys are numerated above, such as a sacrificial tree, beating the tree and
collecting the curcs on a tarp for disposal, and chicken runs. Orchard
cleanliness, particularly in the collecting and disposing of the june drops to
lessen the propagation of these pests is also useful. Mild chemicals such as
phosolone, in the generic fruit tree sprays are no longer available or legal in
my area, and it is shockingly advised to use the far more toxic, to all
creatures and bees, malathion and diaz. which are still available, and clearly
should not be.
Still, curcs sometimes totally devastate my small homestead orchard. Most
of the rest are easily controlled by insecticidal soap alone. So my battle
continues.
This year I will use tarps, beatings with a canoe paddle, and june drop
cleanup. If I am still losing, I will use one spray of malathion, well after
blossom, to spare the bees. It has a 14 day kill factor, and might be enough to
get through the worst.
Having just a few curc bites per apple is not too bad. In some ways, it
helps thin the apples for the june drop as you take out the worst affected, And
a decent portion of the bites do not hatch. However a bad infestation, like
last year, with only soaps, resulted in the loss of the entire
crop.
Anyone who may have some suggestions as to how I can manage a respectable
crop, without chemicals, please help me. Besides, I want to introduce bee hives
for next year.
[EDITOR"S NOTE: The dormant oil bit that follows should be a new
thread, please.]
One further comment on this monologue, This year I am going to do the
dormant oil trick which I usually don't, just to keep back the other pests a
bit. But I noticed that the old and declining trees were pretty rough in the
bark, lichen and moss. So I gave it a scrape down with a garden tool so the
spray will get in where other eggs are hidden. I have only done this once
before in tending this orchard over 29 years, concerned that I may be
increasing the tree exposure to more UV. It is a method I read in an organic
orcharding book decades ago. Any thought on the pros and cons.
Thanks to anybody for reading this and good orcharding'
Geoffrey
|
ActivityRank: 0